Refined Taste? Party goes upscale "Taste of Ocala"

Refined Taste? Party goes upscale

Published: Thursday, May 3, 2012 at 6:30 a.m.

The Taste of Ocala tacks into new waters this weekend.

Gone is the Sunday-in-the-park feel of the past lustrum. Gone also is the gotta-get-to-them-all quest when Taste occupied the Paddock Mall for two hours on annual Sunday nights before that.

Instead, Saturday night's affair at the College of Central Florida's Ewers Century Center is more like a dressy cocktail party, with smaller attendance and a higher price — a change that netted some criticism in the community.

Nevertheless, organizers sail on, their mission the same as it has been for 23 years previous: to raise as much money as possible for CF scholarships.

Ultimately, the bottom line is the bottom line.

"It was an expensive event to put on before," says organizer Jennie Weaver. "We've significantly reduced expenses, and the fact that the venue is smaller, we have to raise the ticket price for that. The event is going to reflect the higher ticket price."

Planning for 300, she says she'll be happy with 150. A turnout of thousands is not a concern; last week about 100 tickets had been sold, with more likely sold by now.

"Sponsorships," Weaver adds, "have already put us over what was raised last year."

Then there are awards and how they're awarded. Previously, Pewter Platters were bestowed in size-of-restaurant categories, decided by popular vote.

This year, there are only four awards: Best Presentation, Best Food Savory, Best Food Sweet and People's Choice; only People's Choice is decided by Tasters.

Whether the change from family friendly to fancy feast works will be known by the end of the weekend. If this 24th Taste raises the predicted bucks, this could be the look of the Taste of Ocala in the near term.

Lost in the discourse this year, however, are the restaurants. Without them there is nothing to taste. They provide samples of their best — at their own cost.

Typically, eateries lay out $1,500 to $5,000 in food costs, employee hours and time lost. The only way they recoup is by Tasters dining with them afterward. The caterers pick up new parties.

Sometimes they do, often they don't.

Yet, year after year the eateries pony up the fee and later their food costs, mostly because they believe in the CF Foundation's mission. And this year, because they don't have to feed so many, most of the restaurants are puttin' on the ritz.

"I feel good about it, but I have mixed feelings," says Ahmed "Al" Ellatter, owner of Brick City Catering. Every year for a decade he's been in the thick of Taste of Ocala — when it was at the mall, under the big top and now.

"I hope it works out," he continues. "It used to cost me over $3,000, but at least it was going to a good cause."

And it still is, he adds.

Slimmer and more relaxed since jettisoning his restaurant for catering only, Ellatter says he has "issues" with Taste's new flavor. For instance, he's always paid extra for more space for his spread; presentation is paramount — and a wall full of Pewter Platters proves it.

But this year he gets the same frontage inside the Klein Conference Center — though not all of the eateries will be in the room; some will spill into the hallway outside the room, and others will be on a patio just outside the doors.

"It's a challenge, but a good challenge," Ellatter says. "People know when they come in that we put on a show. We'll see what the people have to say."

Loring and Marge Felix are thrilled; under the banner of the Braised Onion, they're returning after a four-year absence. Five years ago, rain and wind at the first outside Taste nearly destroyed their rented display pieces.

"It's inside," says Marge Felix, "so instead of spending all that money on a booth, the main focus will be on raising money for scholarships" — though Felix also is concerned about the limited work space.

"We're keeping the food simple," he says, "right in line with what we do right here."

But they're also looking at this being a more relaxed atmosphere where "we'll have more time to talk with people," Marge adds. "Usually we're so busy dishing out we don't have time to mingle."

Ivy Spreading to Ocala: Long a culinary destination in Williston, the Ivy House Restaurant is now looking at Ocala.

"Yessir, we are," says Waica Huggins, granddaughter of Ivy House owner Mimi Hale, confirming the Ivy House will open a third unit sometime this summer in the historic 1890 House on Silver Springs Boulevard just east of downtown square.

She says work on renovations and to get the place ready began this week. Huggins adds the Southern-genteel home-cooking restaurant likes Victorian-era sites. A second location is in Alachua, a small city just north of Gainesville.

Dottie Rathel, owner of Face the Day Spa & Salon upstairs in the pink historic building, says she's excited about the new neighbors downstairs. "It's a perfect fit for Ocala," she adds.

Rick Allen can be reached at rick.allen@starbanner.com